By Ige Ramos
Photos from the Irish Embassy Manila
Since presenting her credentials to President Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos Jr. in September 2024, Ambassador Emma Hickey has steered a vital new chapter in bilateral relations. Serving as the second resident envoy following the term of H.E. William Carlos—who oversaw the historic 2021 opening of the Embassy of Ireland in Manila—Ambassador Hickey brings a renewed energy to the mission. A career diplomat with a keen eye for cultural nuances, she has spent her tenure navigating the Philippine archipelago not just through policy corridors but also through its vibrant regional kitchens.
For Ambassador Hickey, diplomacy is best served at the table. She views the “soft power” of gastrodiplomacy as a bridge between two island nations that share a common language of hospitality, faith, and music. Whether she is championing the “green” virtues of grass-fed Irish beef and dairy or discovering the citrus-sharp complexities of regional kinilaw, her mission is rooted in the belief that the most effective way to “get business done is to feed first.”
As we celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, the ambassador reflects on the shared “cultural ingredients” that bind our two peoples—from the power of our respective global diasporas to a mutual love for a festive centerpiece, whether it be an Irish pig on a spit (hog roast) or a golden Filipino lechon.
The Interview
What is your idea of “culinary happiness” when representing Ireland abroad?
Being able to showcase the best of Irish cuisine to the world. Like the Philippines, Ireland is not known as a culinary capital, yet we have some of the freshest, best-quality ingredients in the world.
If the diplomatic relationship between Ireland and the Philippines were a dish, what would be its primary ingredient, and why?
Seafood. We are both island nations with marine areas far greater than our landmasses, and that means delicious fish! With Irish Atlantic salmon and Palawan’s yellowfin tuna, we would make the best seafood chowder/sinigang!”
Which Irish flavor or aroma instantly transports you back to your childhood home?
The scent of baking soda bread. Breakfast before school was always tea and toast lathered with Irish butter. The best thing about soda bread is there is no yeast, so it can be made in minutes. Every family had their own special recipe, but the secret ingredient is buttermilk—something not so easy to find in the Philippines!
What is the “greatest virtue” of Irish produce—such as dairy or beef—that you believe resonates most with the Filipino palate?
Irish beef and dairy products are the best in the world for a reason. We are one of only a few countries in the world where cattle are grass-fed and graze all year round thanks to our lush, green countryside. Filipinos can now taste our amazing produce for themselves in restaurants and supermarkets across the country.
In the spirit of St. Patrick’s Day, what is the one Irish tradition you believe Filipinos would most easily adopt as their own?
I think the celebration of St. Patrick’s Day itself! I have been so lucky to have participated in so many vibrant fiestas across the Philippines, from the Hermosa festival in Zamboanga to the Lantern festival in San Fernando. Like these festivals, St. Patrick’s Day celebrations blend Ireland’s traditional Catholic faith with Celtic and modern twists. Many people in Ireland start the day by attending mass in honor of our patron saint before joining one of the parades held across the country.
Beyond the plate, what is the most significant “cultural ingredient” that Ireland and the Philippines share?
Our love of music and dance. It was great to see so many Filipinos join our céilí (traditional Irish dance) in Ayala Triangle Gardens on Saturday! Both Ireland and the Philippines boast a large number of unique instruments, from the fiddle, uilleann pipes, and bodhrán to the bandurria and bungkaka. In recent years, Irish bands like U2, the Script, and the Corrs have become household names in the Philippines. I hope that Irish audiences will soon get the pleasure of listening to Cup of Joe and Ben & Ben live!
What was your first “revelatory” experience with Filipino cuisine?
Tasting different regional varieties of kinilaw across the archipelago. Don’t tell our Peruvian and Hawaiian friends, but the Philippines version of this dish is definitely the best. A special mention to Cev in Siargao and Avodah in Iligan, which have been my favorites so far.
If you had to choose a favorite Filipino dish to serve at a state dinner in Dublin, which would it be and why?
It would have to be lechon. Filipinos know how to cook a pig! A pig on a spit would make the perfect centerpiece at a state dinner in Dublin Castle. It would go down well with an Irish audience who grew up eating bacon and cabbage and turkey and ham.
What do you consider the most underrated aspect of the Philippine-Irish connection?
The power of our respective diasporas. Ireland’s 70 million strong diaspora (14 times the population of the country!), just like the Philippines’ OFWs, bring so many benefits to our countries, from geopolitical influence to cultural connections. There are as many Irish pubs as there are Philippine islands, and these are places for Irish people to remain together no matter how far from home they are.”
What is your culinary “motto” for a successful diplomatic mission?
There is a traditional Irish proverb: “Laughter is brightest where food is best.” I learned quickly how important food is to Filipinos. The most effective way to get business done is to feed first. We are very lucky that there are some fantastic Irish chefs in the Philippines who are always on hand to advise the Embassy on Irish-inspired menus.
Ige’s Kitchen Tip: The “Alchemy” of Irish Soda Bread in Manila
Ambassador Hickey notes that while Irish soda bread is incredibly simple to make because it requires no yeast, its soul lies in buttermilk. In the Philippines, where fresh buttermilk is rare, you can recreate the necessary chemical reaction—which helps the bread rise—using common pantry staples.
The Science of the “Lift”
The acid in buttermilk reacts with the baking soda to produce carbon dioxide bubbles. Without this acidity, your bread will be dense rather than fluffy.
Easy Local Substitutes:
The Classic Swap: For every 1 cup of milk, add 1 tablespoon of white vinegar or fresh calamansi juice. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes until it curdles slightly before adding it to your flour.
The Creamy Alternative: Thin out natural unsweetened yogurt with a little bit of milk or water until it reaches the consistency of heavy cream.
The “Pinoy” Twist: While not traditional, using the liquid from local white cheese (kesong puti) can provide a similar lactic acidity that complements the hearty Irish oats or flour.
Ige’s Note: Don’t forget the Irish butter. As the ambassador recalls, the ritual of “tea and toast lathered with Irish butter” is the ultimate comfort. Look for grass-fed Irish brands now widely available in Philippine supermarkets to get that authentic, golden richness.
Glossary
Bodhrán (pronounced “bow-rawn”) is a traditional Irish drum made of a wood frame with a goatskin head. It ranges in diameter from 10 to 22 inches. The tipper, or cipín, a small wooden stick, is a key rhythmic instrument in Irish folk music. It produces a deep, resonant tone when played.
Kinilaw is a traditional Filipino raw seafood dish and cooking method in which fresh ingredients are “cooked” with the acidity of vinegar or citrus juice. It has been a staple in the islands for thousands of years, long before colonial times.
Lechón is a world-renowned pork dish consisting of a whole pig, traditionally a suckling pig, that is spit-roasted over charcoal. Derived from the Spanish word leche (milk), it originally referred to a piglet still being suckled by its mother.
Pig on a spit, also known as hog roast, is a popular catering option in Ireland for large celebrations such as weddings, corporate events, and parties. Slow roasting a whole, locally sourced Irish pig on a rotating spit over an open flame or specialized roasting machine produces succulent meat and crispy, crackling skin.
Soda bread is a variety of quick bread where baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is used as a leavening agent instead of yeast. It is traditionally associated with Ireland, where it became a staple during the 19th-century famine because it could be made quickly with just four inexpensive ingredients: flour, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk.
St. Patrick’s Day, Ireland’s National Day, celebrated annually on March 17th, honors Ireland’s patron saint and celebrates Irish culture and heritage. Originally a religious feast day, it has grown into a global celebration featuring parades, traditional music, and the “wearing of the green.”
Uilleann pipes are Ireland’s national bagpipes, developed in the 18th century and known for their sweeter, quieter tone than Highland pipes. Unlike other bagpipes, they are played seated, with elbow-operated bellows for air and a 2-octave chanter, drones, and regulators for melodic accompaniment.
The Embassy of Ireland held the first-ever St. Patrick’s Day Festival last Saturday at Ayala Triangle Gardens. The evening was dedicated to celebrating Irish tradition, music and dance, culture, food, and good times. With so many guests dressed in green, Manila was literally painted green for the occasion.
Minister of State Frank Feighan graced the program, encouraging the audience to enjoy the festivities. It was also an excellent opportunity to present the winners of the Embassy’s Bloomsday Short Story Competition, which followed a lovely rendition of the Philippine and Irish national anthems by the Makati City Choir.
Guests were treated to performances throughout the day, including songs by all of their favorite Irish artists performed by Isay Olarte, the Emerald Isle Show by Legacy Entertainment Ireland, and traditional Irish music from the Ryan Villamor Quartet. Minister Feighan participated in a traditional céilí in Makati, introducing Irish dance to the community.
Festival attendees also participated in the raffle, with lucky winners taking home bottles of Irish whiskey and other prizes. The Irish pub booth was a crowd favorite, keeping the festive spirit alive throughout the evening.
The Embassy would also like to thank our partners, Make It Makati and My Makati, as well as all of our sponsors, for their contributions in making the festival possible.
Photo from the Irish Embassy Manila
Bringing a taste of Ireland to the Philippines. Ambassador Emma Hickey and the embassy team were delighted to attend the Avonmore Tea Party, which celebrated the launch of Avonmore products in the Philippine market. In 2026, we look forward to welcoming even more Irish products to the Philippines. Photo from the Irish Embassy Manila
Ambassador Emma Hickey and her partner Scott marched alongside 250,000 people in Manila last July to celebrate Pride in one of the largest marches in Asia. Her participation represented Ireland’s strong commitment to equality, inclusion, and the rights of the LGBTQI+ community. Photo from the Irish Embassy Manila
Ambassador Emma Hickey and the dedicated team from the Embassy of Ireland in Manila share a lighthearted moment at the Ireland booth during the International Bazaar. The booth, which features iconic Irish whiskies such as Teeling and Jameson as well as warm hospitality, exemplifies Ireland’s and the Philippines’ growing culinary and cultural ties.